A satellite free to air installation can be accomplished by most
people that have the patience to follow instructions and a moderate
electronic knowledge. If this is not for you, it will be far easier
for you to contact a local satellite installer in your area to
assist you. This tutorial assumes you wish to receive multiple
satellites using a dish motor or rotor. If you only wish to receive
a single satellite, your task is much easier as you have but one
satellite to locate and your dish will be fixed on the single
location. For most broadcasts in the United States and Southern
Canada, a dish size of 70cm - 1.2 Meters (30" - 48") is sufficient.
Larger dish sizes may be required for more northern or out of
footprint locations.
Definitions to Know
Elevation is the up/down angle
Azimuth is the side to
side direction
Elevation: This is the angle between the broadcast satellite
above the horizon and your physical location on Earth, where your
receiving satellite dish will be. This is the up/down adjustment on
the satellite dish. All commercial satellites in geo-stationary
orbit are located 22 300 miles above the Earth. The curvature of the
Earth means that the farther you advance East or West from the
satellite orbital location, the more you will need to adjust your
elevation. For example, if the satellite orbital location is located
directly over the state of Texas, your elevation in New York will be
lower than that of someone living in Texas.
Azimuth: This is the compass
direction to your satellites location. This is the left/right
adjustment on the satellite dish. For example, to find a satellite
located at 101 degrees longitude , your azimuth in Los Angeles,
California will be 137 degrees. Also, as there is a difference
between true and magnetic North, to find a satellite, you may also
need to compensate or correct your values for magnetic deviation.
(See below image) For Los Angeles, the 137 degree azimuth must be
corrected by subtracting 14 degrees, so the true compass direction
is 123 degrees. This corrected value is known as your declination
angle.
Locations West of 0 need
to subtract the value shown. Locations East of 0 need to add the
value shown.
If you would like to
find out the coordinates for your site, you can access the U.S.
Census Bureaus web site and search by either zip code or city name.
Please note however, the True Azimuth calculation is relative to the
geographic North Pole. On the earths surface, a compass points to
the magnetic North Pole rather than the geographic North Pole. The
angular difference between these two directions is called
Magnetic Declination.
If you don't account for magnetic declination in your azimuth
setting, the azimuth calculation for your antenna location will be
less precise. Use the following Magnetic Declination Map to find out
the declination value for your site. You can also get the
declination value can also be use the
magnetic declination calculator
on the National Geophysical Data Center website
Polarization:
This is the correction that compensates for curvature of the Earth
relative to the satellite signal for linearly polarized satellites.
This is also known as tilt or skew. Linearly polarized satellites
use both vertical and horizontal polarization. To correctly receive
signals on satellite transponders, your dish must be adjusted so as
to receive the signals head on. Your polarization adjustment
compensates for the curvature of the Earth by rotating the LNBF left
or right. Note that some fixed dish configurations adjust the
polarization by tilting the entire dish rather than the lnbf. A
negative polarization is in a clockwise direction from vertical. A
positive polarization is in a counterclockwise direction from
vertical.
Step 1: Satellite Site Survey
The first step in a free to air installation is critical as it will
determine your eligibility to receive satellite signals. Not all
homes are capable of receiving signals as natural barriers such as
trees, mountains and also man-made barriers such as buildings and
other structures can block signals. Because the signal from the
satellite is relatively weak, it must have an un-obstructed view of
the satellite in order to receive a satisfactory signal. Also bear
in mind, seasonal changes, in particular to homes with seasonal
vegetation or shrubs, so you do not end up installing your satellite
in a location that will be blocked when spring comes and leaves from
trees obstruct your signal.
Many areas will be able to receive some satellites, but possibly not
others because of these barriers. If your site survey reveals that
you are not able to receive the entire satellite belt, you will need
to determine the best location for your dish to be able to receive
the satellites of most importance to you. Bear in mind that if a
particular location in your yard is not suitable, moving the
location 100 feet or more can make a tremendous difference.
Consult our Free
to Air Satellite Channel Listing and pay particular
attention to the satellites that you are interested in receiving.
Each satellite will have an orbital slot, such as 97 degrees West.
You should now choose the furthest Eastern satellite and note down
the orbital location. Now choose the furthest Western satellite and
note down the orbital location. The difference in the two locations
is your ideal uncorrected satellite range that you will be aiming to
receive. Note that your actual pointing direction will require
correction due to the difference between true and magnetic North.
You will now need to lookup your Eastern and Western satellite
locations on our Satellite Pointing Page in order to receive your
corrected values. Select the city nearest to you and select the far
eastern satellite from the list. Your "Azimuth" or compass heading
will be calculated, note it down. This is the precise compass
direction that you will need to point to in order to receive that
satellite. Now repeat the procedure for the far western satellite.
The two locations are your corrected ideal range of view.
Additionally, if there is a particular satellite of paramount
importance to you, will will also want to note down the azimuth for
it as well, as you will want to ensure that you can receive it, even
if it means not being able to receive some others. Also make a note
of the elevation of the satellite. The lower the elevation, the
closer it is to the horizon. You will also need to bear in mind of
your physical location. If you live near the East coast, the
farthest western satellites will be much farther down on the horizon
that the Eastern satellites. This will make it more likely that
trees to buildings can block the signals. If you live near the West
coast, the opposite is true.
You will now need a good compass. Walk outside and locate your far
eastern satellite azimuth on your compass. If the elevation for the
satellite is low to the ground, such as 5-10 degrees, you will want
to make sure that there are no tall trees or other obstacles in your
path within 200-400 feet from you. Now slowly sweep your compass
west until your reach your far western satellite azimuth. As well
make sure there are no tall trees in the way. Are there any tall
trees in between the two points? If so, you may want to try other
areas of your yard to see if a better location is available. If
there are some tall trees in your way and there is a particular
satellite of interest to you, you will want to compromise so as to
favor reception of that particular satellite over some less
important ones. Once you have located an ideal location, ensure that
you will be able to install a pole in the ground at that location
and also that you will be able to bury the coaxial cable from the
location to your house.
Step 2: Install Mounting Pole
You will now need to determine the diameter of your mounting pole as
well as the height of the pole. Most small Ku band dishes use a 1
5/8" diameter pole. Larger dishes will require a larger diameter of
pole. If you already have your dish, consult the manual or measure
the mounting bracket. Your pole should be a minimum of 5' above the
ground and 18-24" below the ground. If you have some obstacles to
overcome, you may wish to use a taller mounting pole. Your pole will
need to be secured with numerous bags of concrete to prevent
movement. A general rule of thumb is one bag for every foot of pole
height. Stormy locations may require more. For best results, use a
steel pole which can be obtained from most steel fabricators. You
will also need a 4' level and a small torpedo level.
Dig a hole 18-24" or more below the surface. Install the pole and
fill the hole with concrete. You will also want to use a generous
amount of concrete above the surface or you will need to bury the
pole deeper. Assuming the cut on the top of the pole is a square 90
degree cut, place the torpedo level on the top of the pole and the
4' level on the sides of the pole. The pole must be both plumb (90
degrees vertically) and level (90 degrees horizontally). Check for
plumb in three directions on the pole and also place some sort of
brace against the pole, preventing movement while concrete is
curing. You will need to check the pole for plumb several times in
the first few hours to ensure no movement has occurred and correct
it if it has. You also need to allow 24-48 hours to the concrete to
harden before attempting to mount the dish. Once cured, the dish
should be solidly mounted and should not move if shook. If movement
occurs, you will need to further solidify the pole with additional
concrete above the surface.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
Step 3: Install Dish
Installation of standard stationary free to air satellite dish
A standard installation of a stationary satellite dish or several
dishes connected to a DiSEqc switch is fairly
straight forward. Many late model digital receivers come with an
on-screen dish signal meter, however you may find it far easier to
purchase a low cost satellite signal finder,
available from most satellite retailers for under $15. The signal
finder will allow you to locate Ku band satellite signals as well as
fine tune them for optimum operation.
Your first step will be to run your coaxial cable (RG-6) from your
house and satellite receiver to your dish location, allowing for
enough cable to secure it to your mounting pole and run through your
dish and to your LNBF. It is always better to leave too much cable
until your permanently mount your dish rather than too little. For
best results, you should staple the cable to the side of your house
and bury any exposed portion that runs across the ground to prevent
damage. When stapling, ensure that your staple does not penetrate
the cable or you will have a short which will prevent your system
from operating.
Assuming that you have a pole in the ground in in some cases a
mounting bracket affixed to a solid surface and assuming that you
have checked the mounting pole or bracket to insure that it is both
plumb and level, you should assemble the dish and LNBF mounting arm
assembly. At this time, you should have all your satellite locations
as well as all your elevation and azimuth settings. If you don't
know the elevation angle and the azimuth compass bearing of where
you live click
here to consult our satellite calculator.
As your dish will be
fixed in one position in the sky, you will be limited to whatever
programming is on the satellite of choice. Locate your chosen
satellites elevation and set the elevation angle on your satellite
dish, you will find the elevation reference points on the side of
your dish. Bear in mind that you may still need to fine tune it
after you have located your signal. Mount the dish to your mounting
pole, run your coaxial cable to your
LNBF, set your satellite
dish polarization by adjusting or rotating the LNBF to the required
setting and secure your LNBF to your dish. Most dish manufacturers
include a polarization scale that you can use as a reference. You
will still need to adjust this setting later, so tighten the LNBF
just enough to prevent movement. If you are using an external signal
finder, connect the LNBF end to the LNBF and the coaxial from your
house to the receiver side of the finder.
Step 4: Free to Air Receiver
Setup
You should now have your dish mounted temporarily outside and your
coaxial cable connected to it. The dish should be set to the
elevation and polarization that you calculated earlier. Connect the
coaxial from your satellite dish to the receiver and connect the
receiver to your television.
It is recommended that
you place your satellite receiver and television set close to the
dish during the dish alignment procedure. If that is not possible
due to where the dish is located, a second person may be helpful to
relay information seen on the screen of the TV when the dish is
being aligned. Do not turn the power on until all the cable
connections have been made. There are two options when connecting
the receiver to your television or monitor. The receiver has both
audio/video outputs as well as a regular coax output on either
channel 3 or 4. Attach the appropriate cables according to the
system you have. If you use the standard coax, channel 3 or 4
output, ensure that you select the channel, 3 or 4, that is not used
in your area for local off-air broadcast television. Your television
would have to be set to the channel you selected, 3 or 4, in order
for you to receive the programming. If the audio/video outputs are
used, your television typically would need to be switched to the
"video" input mode.
Now turn on your receiver and television. Use the on screen menu to
locate the signal strength meter on your television.
Consult your receivers
operating manual for the setup setting. Initial satellite setup
varies from receiver to receiver, some are easier than others.
Follow the setup procedure and setup the satellite from which you
will be receiving programming from. Once you have this complete, you
will want to return outside to your satellite dish in order to
locate your desired satellite.
Step 5: Satellite Dish
Alignment
Assuming that you have your elevation and polarization setting
correct, and assuming that you have a signal finder connected to
your dish, set your signal meters sensitivity to the half way point.
Move the dish to the far left and slowly rotate it right until your
signal meter picks up an active signal. One you have locked onto an
active signal, you will need to adjust the signal finders
sensitivity so that you can find the optimum signal strength. Once
you have peaked the signal by adjusting the dishes azimuth, you
should return inside to insure that you have locked onto the correct
satellite. Peruse the available satellite channels and compare them
to your satellite channel reference. If you are locked onto the
wrong satellite, you need to return outside and continue searching
for the correct satellite. Once you have the correct satellite, you
now should return to the on screen dish tuning meter and return
outside. Once again, ensure you have optimum signal by minutely
adjusting the sign from left to right until you have peaked the
signal. Once you have achieved the optimum signal, you should lock
the dish into position by securing the azimuth adjustment bolts
which secure it to your mounting pole.
You now need to loosen the elevation bolts so that you can slowly
adjust the dishes elevation for optimum signal strength. Once again,
you may need to adjust your signal finders sensitivity to achieve
this. Slowly move the dish up and down again until you have peaked
the signal strength and lock the dish into position.
The final setting is to fine tune the polarization setting. Some
receivers have a separate meter for this, consult your manual for
details on accessing this feature. You may find it easier to have a
person on the inside watching the meter while you are adjusting the
dish on the outside. Loosen the LNBF and slowly rotate it clockwise
and counterclockwise until you have achieved the optimum signal.
Once complete, disconnect the signal finder from the LNBF, measure
the final coaxial cable length, allowing a short drip loop to hang
from the bottom of the LNBF mounting arm and permanently secure the
LNBF and all other mounting bolts.
Your final signal strength should be in excess of 45% or more. If it
is below that level, you will need to check for obstacles in the
satellites path, such as trees. A low signal will cause outages in
heavy rain or other weather. This is known as rain fade. If you have
a tree in your way, you my find upgrading to a larger dish is
necessary. This is also true of satellites that do not specifically
target your area in their footprint.
Once you have achieved a good signal, congratulations and enjoy your
free to air system.
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